One wishes that in mastering the art of eating she had also learned to love research more during that year in Paris. Mah doesn’t get it all wrong though, at least she wouldn’t have gotten it wrong had she written her article in a decade ago, for there was indeed a trend in wine bars of the type she describes… around the year 2000.Īnn Mah, who has just published the book “Mastering the Art of French Eating: Lessons in Food and Love from a Year in Paris,” has apparently confused the traditional Paris wine bar with the cocaine-fueled wine scene in New York in the 1980s.
It has no titled sommelier, and it’s even more casual, modestly priced and convivial than those bars cited in the article. The old breed of wine bar, still very much aive, is anything but a pretentious place. The premise of the article is all wrong, as anyone capable of understanding “Bar à vins” (or “Bar à vin”) on an awning knows. 1, 2013), Ann Mah, assisted by a lazy editor, would have readers believe that three years ago there was “a cultural shift” that brought forth a “new breed” of wine bar in Paris that dances to a trio of beloved travel adjectives, “casual,” “modestly priced,” “convivial,” a breed that can now save us “an embarrassing collision with a heavy, leather-bound menu and the haughty gaze of the sommelier.” In her article In Paris, a New Breed of Wine Bar (Oct.
The New York Times Travel Section has done it again: published a sloppy article announcing a trend in Paris that either never existed or that made its splash long ago.
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